Starting and stopping a charge

Four ways to start a session

All four methods end at the same place, an authorized session on one specific connector; they differ only in how that connector gets identified:

In the app: the driver opens the Location from the map or list, picks a Connector from the location's plug list, and taps Start charging (some screens use Slide to start). This is the only method that involves choosing among plugs, so it is also the only one where the wrong plug can be selected.
Entering a plug ID: the ID printed on the connector (for example 20.2.1) is typed into the app's "Enter ID manually" option. Because the ID names exactly one connector, this skips both the map and the plug selection step, and it works when a QR sticker is worn or unreadable.
Scanning a QR code: the Scan option reads the QR code printed on the connector. Each connector carries its own code, so a successful scan cannot land on the wrong plug at a multi-charger site.
Tapping an RFID card or charge key: the driver holds an RFID card or Charge key against the charger's reader after plugging in. The charger authenticates the key and starts the session on its own; no app steps are needed, which makes this the method that works with a phone left in the car or out of battery. The key must first be registered to the account under Profile → Charge keys.

The cable and the start action can come in either order. Starting in the app first and then plugging in avoids one failure mode: a charger that has been plugged in but left waiting eventually times out and resets to available, after which the cable must be reconnected before a session can begin.

[IMAGE: Connector selection with the Start charging button]

The pre-authorization hold

At session start the app places a temporary hold on the payment method and says so explicitly, stating the amount and that "Any unused amount will be returned." Only the actual session cost is captured at the end; the app releases its side of the hold as soon as the session ends, and the bank then typically takes 1 to 7 business days to clear it from the account view. Details are in Payments and billing.

Important
A session that looks failed while money still shows as reserved on the card is almost always this Pre-authorization hold waiting for the bank to clear it, not a real charge. When a session fails to start, the app confirms "No fees were taken for this session."

What the screen shows during startup

Startup runs through named stages, each a literal message in the app:

"Preparing your charging session": the app is connecting to the charger and getting it ready, normally a few seconds. The app asks that the connector be plugged into the vehicle during this stage.
"Connecting to your vehicle": the charger is confirming the connection with the car itself. This handshake is between the charger and the vehicle, so a car that refuses it (for example one whose battery management declines the charge) stalls the session here even though the charger is healthy.
"Still trying to connect": the charger is taking longer than expected to respond. Both waiting and retrying are valid; neither costs anything, since no fees exist until charging actually begins.
"Charging didn't start": the session failed. The app's own advice, checking that the connector is securely plugged in and trying again, resolves the most common cause, a cable seated far enough to look connected but not far enough to latch.

Once the session is running, the screen switches to the live view with time elapsed, kWh delivered, charging speed, and the estimated cost so far.

[IMAGE: Startup progress screen showing "Preparing your charging session"]

Stopping a session

In the app: Stop charging (or Slide to end charging) on the active session screen.
A session started with an RFID card or charge key is stopped by tapping the same key on the reader again; the tap that started it is also its off switch.

When the session ends, the final cost is captured from the hold and the remainder released, and the cable unlocks. A car left plugged in after charging finishes starts accruing an Idle fee, charged at set intervals and refunded in full if the car is moved within the grace period, so unplugging promptly is worth money; see Billing and cost breakdown.

Cable locking

The charger locks the cable for the whole duration of an active session, which prevents anyone from interrupting a stranger's charge or walking off with the cable. Stopping the session releases the lock automatically. If the cable stays locked after the session has ended, starting a new session and immediately stopping it usually resets the lock mechanism; a cable that remains stuck after that is a hardware matter for the location's operator, reachable through Need help? on the location.

Why a session will not start

The complete set of causes, what each one actually does, and what resolves it:

No payment method: session start begins by placing the pre-authorization hold, and with no card on file there is nothing to place it against, so the app blocks the attempt with "Payment method missing" before the charger is even contacted. Adding a card under Profile → Payment methods resolves it permanently.
Pre-authorization declined: the card exists but the bank refused the temporary hold, so the session never begins because there is no payment guarantee behind it. Prepaid and virtual cards are a recurring source of this, since some of them reject holds by design. Trying a different card resolves it immediately; the bank can explain a decline on a normal card.
Connector in use or booked: the app states which case applies, "Somebody else is using this plug" or "This charging plug is booked until" a given time. A booked connector is blocked ahead of its slot so the booking holder finds it free, which means it can refuse a walk-in even while visibly idle. Choosing another connector works now; booking this one works for later.
Wrong connector: the connector chosen must match the vehicle's physical plug type (for example Type 2 or CCS). Selecting a connector the car cannot physically plug into, or one incompatible with its charging standard, prevents the session from starting. Checking the location's connector list, or filtering by plug type before arriving, avoids this.
An active session elsewhere on the account: the app refuses with "You already have an ongoing charging session." One account runs one session at a time, and the blocking session may be somewhere forgotten, such as a home charger still connected overnight. Ending the active session in the app clears the way.
A session that delivered 0 kWh: the session was authorized but the charger and car never began transferring energy, typically because their handshake failed on the first attempt. The fix forces a fresh handshake: stop the session in the app, unplug the cable, wait a few seconds, plug back in, and start again.
A cable that stays locked: a cable still locked from a previous session cannot be moved to the car. Stopping that session releases it; a lock that persists after the session has ended usually resets by starting and immediately stopping a new session, and otherwise needs the operator.

[IMAGE: "Charging didn't start" screen with the retry option]

What limits charging speed

The delivered speed is the lowest of three ceilings: the charger's maximum output, the car's own maximum charging rate, and what the cable in use supports. Whichever is smallest sets the pace, so a fast charger does not speed up a slow-charging car. Many cars additionally taper their rate as the battery nears full, which is the car protecting its battery, not a fault. Nothing in the app raises or configures charging speed.

Common questions

Does a failed start ever cost the driver anything? No. The app confirms "No fees were taken for this session" when startup fails, and any pre-authorization hold is released; only the bank's own 1 to 7 business day clearing window can make it linger on a statement.

Which start method works without a phone at all? The RFID or charge key tap. The charger authenticates the key and starts and stops the session on its own, so a registered key covers drivers with a dead phone or none.

Does the order of plugging in and starting matter? Both orders work, but starting in the app first sidesteps the charger's plug-in timeout: a charger left plugged in without a session eventually resets to available and then requires reconnecting the cable.

Why can a session stall at "Connecting to your vehicle" on a healthy charger? That stage is a handshake between the charger and the car, so the car can be the party refusing it, most often its battery management declining the charge. Re-plugging and retrying gives the handshake a fresh attempt.